On a vast tract of reddish-yellow land dotted with small pits and heaps of rocky soil, 72-year-old Puran Patel searches for diamonds in Pati Bajariya, about 10 kilometers from Panna town in Madhya Pradesh.
Clad in a simple white dhoti and a yellow t-shirt, Puran diligently shakes a sieve filled with pebbly soil, his concentration unwavering despite the sun’s relentless heat.
His dreams of a pilgrimage to Rameshwaram motivate him as he works, even though financial constraints have led him to try his luck in Panna, the “diamond bowl” of India.
Puran, who moved to a nearby ashram seven years ago after fulfilling his family responsibilities, believes destiny has brought him to these diamond fields.
With little more than a hoe and ₹200 in cash, he has embarked on this journey.
Nearby, 11-year-old Pawan Kushwaha races down the rocky banks of the Runj River, a bamboo basket in hand, helping his mother and grandmother search for diamonds.
The family came to Panna after hearing that dam construction had uncovered rich deposits of “diamond-bearing” alluvium.
Pawan, a sixth-grade student from Khajuraho, eagerly took a three-day leave from school, hoping to contribute to his family’s quest.
The Panna diamonds have not garnered much attention in India or abroad due to their ‘average’ quality.
Puran and Pawan are part of a larger narrative involving countless diamond hunters who flock to Panna, roughly 450 kilometers from Bhopal.
The National Mineral Development Corporation (NMDC) halted mining in January 2020 after its forest clearance expired.
Following a Supreme Court order, there are hopes for a restart, but for now, artisanal-scale shallow-pit mining (ASM) is the only source of indigenous diamonds.
ASM involves individuals or families mining with minimal mechanization, making it labor-intensive but low-cost.
Despite the average quality of Panna diamonds—most falling in the “G” grade on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) color scale—there is a persistent rush among hunters.
Ravi Patel, the Panna district diamond officer, acknowledges that the best stones typically fall in the “G” grade, but the allure of occasionally finding a diamond worth lakhs or even crores keeps people coming.
However, most remain empty-handed despite years of searching and considerable financial investment.
Rajesh Gond, a landless tribal, works as a laborer for more affluent diamond hunters. He has also leased small mines to pursue his own opportunities. (Image: Rajesh Gond with his daughters) | Sanjeev Saraswat
Kakku Sharma, a 63-year-old diamond hunter, likens his addiction to diamond hunting to alcoholism.
“I feel ill if I do not go to my small diamond mine first thing in the morning,” he confesses. Kakku has been on this quest since 1978 and continues to reinvest in more mines, driven by the hope of a better tomorrow.
After striking it lucky with a 12.58-carat diamond in 2018 that fetched ₹46 lakh, he still hopes to find more treasures.
Sitaram Ahirwar, 47, mirrors Kakku’s sentiments, having become a diamond hunter at just 15 years old.
He recalls finding a 7.5-carat stone early in his pursuit, but since then, he has had no luck.
“Well, it is him,” he says, gesturing skyward, “who gives and takes everything. So I keep hunting with faith in him.”
For individuals like Rajesh Gond, a landless tribal who works for other diamond hunters, the situation is no different.
Despite facing extreme poverty and lacking a ration card, he rises at 4 a.m. daily to dig for diamonds before heading out to work as a laborer.
“I will not give up,” he asserts, embodying the unwavering spirit of many in this community.
Occasionally, outsiders like Pratap Singh Rana and his wife, Meena, strike it rich.
The Noida couple invested in a diamond mine after hearing about it from a worker and found seven diamonds, including a 9.64-carat stone worth an estimated ₹50 lakh.
Yet, even they face challenges, as their finds often fetch low prices at auction due to market fluctuations.
Amid the illegal and challenging environment of diamond hunting, the Panna diamond rush has sparked a burgeoning human settlement at the site.
Families like Pawan’s live in temporary shacks, laboring under the harsh sun, selling snacks, tea, and essential goods to support their fellow miners.
Despite the illegal nature of their activities, many continue to scour the land, driven by hope and the promise of fortune.
“I feel as if I am ill if I do not go to my small diamond mine the first thing in the morning. The addiction is just like alcoholism,” says Kakku Sharma, 63-year-old diamond hunter | Sanjeev Saraswat
The local authorities have taken note of the increasing number of hunters, particularly at the dam construction site on the Runj River.
Divisional Forest Officer Punit Sonkar highlights the risks posed to wildlife and the potential for unrest among the growing population of miners.
Recent measures have included evicting illegal miners and proposing a pass system for locals to regulate the situation.
However, the persistent allure of diamonds makes it difficult for authorities to curtail illegal mining and trading.
Ultimately, the Panna diamond rush is more than just a story of wealth and desperation; it embodies the human spirit’s resilience and relentless pursuit of hope.
As long as the earth continues to yield its treasures, individuals like Puran, Pawan, Kakku, Sitaram, and Rajesh will keep searching, driven by the dreams of finding that one diamond that might change their lives forever.
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